Friday, June 29, 2018

Passage: Bay of Islands to Tonga via Minerva Reef



Key stats for the first leg
Departed Bay of Islands 12:30pm 29 May 2018.  Crew: Cran, Ann, Patrick & Linda
Air temp 17degrees, wind a chilly SSE 10kts, water temp 16 degrees Multiple clothing layers required
Arrived North Minerva Reef 14:10pm 4 June 2018. Same crew, which is always good at the end of a passage
Air temp 26.5 degrees, wind ENE 3-4kts, water temp 24.4 degrees Single clothing layers
Distance travelled 905Nm (1,676Km) Duration 6 days 1hr 40min

Patrick is a very experienced sailor and has done 1,000’s of miles with us on Lettin’Go.  Linda has done a lot of ocean crossings but all on cruise ships, so this was a first for her on a yacht.  Linda is a quick learner and by the second day she was doing watch periods on her own.  That meant we could do watches of 2 hours on, 6 hours off which is not tiring at all and worked well when things got more demanding with the stronger the weather.

On passage we had a bit of everything.  We left in light to moderate winds 8-12kts that lasted 42 hours with motor sailing for a lot of that time to maintain momentum in the swells.
The next 30 hours light winds less than 8 kts motor sailing
Never tire of sunsets at sea
Then a front came through.  Not our favourite part of the trip, we had 20-30+kts and building seas for 34 hours with rain squalls.  During this time, we had heavily reduced sail area plus a motor running again to maintain momentum and stop stalling in the swells.  To reduce the slamming of the boat in the seas we headed far more west than our destination.   
Once the front passed through the wind dropped fairly quickly and swung from the NE to NW, so we were able to turn towards Minerva Reef again and recover the miles lost to the west.  That’s ocean sailing.
 As we arrived at North Minerva Reef the wind dropped right out and we had glassy conditions inside the reef. 


Linda on lookout coming into the lagoon


As mentioned in last year’s post, the Minerva Reefs are interesting and it's quite surreal to be anchored there in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean. There are two reefs North and South about 20Nm (37Km) apart and they are 320Nm (600km) from Tonga. North Minerva Reef is higher than South and as such offers more protection from the ocean swell. North is almost circular with an entrance on the north west about 200m wide so quite easy to navigate through as long as there isn't a large swell running across the entrance. It is a relatively large lagoon, 3Nm north/south and 2.6Nm east/west (5.5 x 4.8 Km) The depths in this part of the Pacific are generally 2,000 - 4,000m. The reefs have steep walls and sit on an underwater platform about 500 - 800m deep. These must be old reefs as the top of the reefs are rock and sand unlike the soft coral reefs in Qld. There are corals on the sides of the reef but at low tide you can safely walk on the reef without damaging the reef system or yourself. Consequently, reef walking is a popular activity at low tide.
We found a good anchorage just on the edge of the shelving sand and very much to ourselves.  We celebrated our passage with our first alcoholic drink since leaving NZ over lunch.






About 1Km away a cluster of 20+ boats all anchored together.  Why do they do that in an anchorage that is so big…?  The inside of the reef is a large area but a lot of boats cluster around anchorages shown in the guides when you can anchor almost anywhere inside the reef depending on the weather and keeping an eye out for coral bommies.


 



After a swim and a late lunch, we made the most of the light glassy conditions to repair our main sail which had 2 chaff points from pressure at 2 reef points in the 30+ winds.



The light winds coupled with the prefect tide, low water just after sunset, made for conditions that were just right for night crayfish hunting. (Read last year’s post about cray fishing at Minerva – 6/6/17) Jim, ex Panthera, was crewing on Manuhaea and joined us for the crayfish hunt.  It was the first time for everyone except Cran but pretty soon people got the hang of it and Linda was even immobilising them with the red plastic crate, so we could grab them.  In less than an hour on the reef we were heading back to our boats with the catch of various sizes.  8 crayfish in the red crate back to Lettin”Go and Jim delivered 4 crayfish back to Manuhaea, much to the delight of their crew.
No guessing what was for dinner that night and lunch the following 2 days.



Getting the last of the crayfish out
We were planning on staying a few days in Minerva Reef but another weather change was forecast that would produce unfavourable winds for the next leg to Tonga if we delayed, so we left the next afternoon.

Key stats for the second leg
Departed North Minerva Reef 16:40pm 5 June 2018.  Crew: Cran, Ann, Patrick & Linda
Air temp 24degrees, wind nil, water temp 24 degrees, single clothing layer required
Arrived Pangai, Tonga 9:30am 8 June 2018. Same crew, developing a good pattern here
Air temp 28 degrees, wind N 10kts, water temp 27 degrees, clothing layers optional
Distance travelled 368Nm (682Km) Duration 2 days 16hrs 50min

Now I mentioned that if we delayed in Minerva we would have unfavourable winds, well leaving early didn’t mean we would have favourable winds just not unfavourable.  We left with no wind and motored most of the way to Tonga in very light winds.  If we had delayed, we would have had strong head winds ie blowing from the direction we were heading.
The trip on this leg was largely uneventful.  We did start trolling for fish.  We had a freezer full of precooked meals for the passage when we left NZ so no room in the freezer, therefore no fishing on the first leg.  Now was different so out with the lures.  Now for the fish story… we had a strike on the handline.  Patrick and Ann heard the hand reel knocking about, looked back to see a marlin over 2m in the body excluding its bill jumping on the surface thrashing the line.  One big jerk on the handline and the trace broke.  A good result as that was one big fish, too big to bring onboard on a handline.
Arriving in Pangai we called up Matt at the Ha’apai Beach Resort who arranged for Customs, Bio Security & Health officials to meet us at the harbour for clearance.  As we were anchoring in the harbour a front came through and within a couple of minutes the wind swung 180 degrees going from N10kts to S20/30kt and heavy rain.  We were unable to get the anchor set and couldn’t finish the process, so had to assist the anchor by driving forward on the engine until the 30kt gusts passed.   Obviously, the officials waited for that to pass before coming down to the harbour.
We arrived on the same date as last year – June 8 and the same three officials from Customs, Health and Bio-Security from last year checked us in and they remembered our boat.  
Once the formalities were completed and we were officially cleared in, we headed up to the Ha’apai Beach Resort to catch up with friends Steve & Kate off Blue Summit and Rob & Nicola off Distant Sun. Then ashore for a few glasses of the local brew to celebrate completing another successful passage.



Wednesday, June 27, 2018

Blog catch up - Bay of Islands, preparations for departure


Once back in the Bay of Islands it was full on boat jobs before we flew back to Brisbane to catch up with family & friends and do the rounds of medical appointments.

Before commencing serious jobs we had a couple of days out in the Bay of Islands where Cran could work on more pleasant jobs – gaining more experience flying our new drone.  Over these days he progressed from beach operations to taking off and landing on the boat.  A significant upskilling as the drone isn’t cheap and it doesn’t float.

The drone has some amazing inbuilt flight modes which Cran has been working through.  A favourite is Asteroid which makes you feel as if you are in your own little world.





One serious job was to dismantle the anchor windless for servicing (for you non-boaties it’s the motor and gearbox that drives the anchor chain up and down, a real bugger if it fails).  We had concerns it was getting noisier and drawing more power than previously.  Unfortunately it isn’t easy to check as the motor and gearbox are enclosed in a housing that is bolted to the deck.  Once we had unit unbolted we could see the extent of our problems: the electric motor had broken apart and was shorting out when we changed direction of the chain movement.  A situation that if left undetected could have at best ended with total failure of the motor and at worst could have caught fire. The other issue was that it appeared there wasn’t any oil in the gearbox.





Fortunately the guys at Seapower, a marine engineering company at Opua that we use, are service agents for our brand of windless so once dismantled the electric motor and gearbox was left with them to investigate and if possible repair while we went back to Brisbane.  There’s a saying in the world of yacht ownership and maintenance: “there is no problem on a boat that time and money can’t fix”  often is requires a lot of both.  In this case with our windless it wasn’t too bad.  The electric motor was able to be fixed and the gearbox that didn’t appear to have any oil actually had a fine grade of grease put in it by the previous service agent instead of oil.  While not recommended it did mean that the internal gears were not damaged and the gearbox only need a strip down, clean off all components, new seals and the correct grade of oil.  Problem fixed for a lot less than we were expecting and it now runs so much smoother and quieter.

We were fortunate that our flight back to Brisbane was on a Saturday and the Friday was the Island Cruising NZ dinner at the Auckland Royal Yacht Club.   A good chance to catch up with some of the people from the rally last year.  Ben and Helen (ex Felix) had just purchased Panthera from Jim.  Panthera is a Lagoon 440 which was also on the rally last year and was currently berthed at Westhaven Marina near the Auckland Royal Yacht Club.  Ben & Helen generously invited us to stay onboard with them Friday to go to the dinner and drive us to the airport the next day.  An offer that couldn’t be refused.  It was a good night and we caught up with several people from the 2017 rally.  We also noted at the yacht club a certain old mug in pride of place and plenty of electronic security.


America's Cup back in NZ

As we didn’t get to spend any time in Auckland in 2017 we decided to book a couple of nights in Auckland on our way back from Brisbane.  One day was spent at the Maritime Museum.  NZ is very much a maritime nation and the museum had a lot NZ sailing history including exhibits of 2 types of yachts from Cran’s early sailing as a teenager.  It was very easy to spend a whole day there.


Cran's first yacht a P Class



Cran's second yacht, a 2 person Flying Ant



While we on Great Barrier Island climbing to all those scenic lookouts Cran developed an inflamed knee.  The knee was still causing problems 6 weeks later when we were back in Brisbane so our GP referred Cran for a MRI.  Unfortunately the MRI was done the day before we returned to NZ so we didn’t get the results until we were back on the boat in the Bay of Islands.  The MRI report identified a “bucket handle” tear of the meniscus cartilage.  That type of tear can cause a locked knee, which is not only very painful but also very immobilizing, not the sort of risk we could take heading out to the remote Pacific. 

The treatment for a bucket handle tear is to surgically remove the flap.  Straight forward surgery but surgery non the less.  We decided that Cran would return to Brisbane to see the orthopaedic surgeon he had used previously while Ann would remain on the boat and finish provisioning.  Advice we received was that it would be between 3 and 6 weeks before Cran would be back in NZ and ready to sail north.  Very frustrating as our friends Steve & Kate on Blue Summit were ready to leave on the next weather window and Rob & Nicola on Distant Sun were also getting ready to go.  We would have to catch up with them later in Tonga.

Making the most of our expected delay we decided to purchase a new vang from the USA.  The vang is a telescopic rod that runs between the boom and the base of the mast and supports the boom when the sail is down. Our old vang had crapped itself (old nautical term).  We had tried getting a replacement earlier but the whole process was frustrating and we decided not to deal with NZ agent for that brand.  With our extra time we were able to purchase a different brand through Garhauer NZ.  It would be made by Garhauer in the USA to specifically fit our boat.  As it was a custom order it would take 3 weeks which worked with our new timeline.

Cran went to Brisbane and returned after a week.  The good news was the MRI report wasn’t correct in the type of tear.  The orthopaedic surgeon advised that the tear was not a bucket handle and would not cause a lock knee.  His advice was to not have surgery but to continue treating the inflammation as Cran had been doing and revisit it when we get back to Australia in November if it was still causing problems.  A good result but it took another trip across the Tasman to find out.

After Cran was back in NZ we still had the wait for the new vang. Kevin Akast, owner of Garhauer NZ worked closely Merv Worthington, a local stainless steel fabricator who was modifying our mast & boom fittings to take the new vang plus liaising with Garhauer USA to ensure we could install the vang at the earliest possible time.  Once we had a firm delivery date and a reasonable weather window for departure Patrick was alerted and flew in with his friend Linda to crew with us to Tonga.


Merv doing the final fitting of the vang attachments
Everything was coming together and not a moment too soon as the days were getting very chilly in Opua.   Definitely time to be departing for warmer climes north.  The day after the vang was fitted we cleared Customs, fuelled up and were on our way by midday Tuesday 29 May 2018.

Another foggy start to a Bay of Islands chilly day

Fuelling up. Note the beenies on Cran & Patrick, a cold southerly wind.


Monday, June 18, 2018

More posts coming - but not for a few days.

Yes we are in Tonga...!

We had good intentions of getting the blog up to date after Patrick and Linda left but between more boat jobs and more socialising time has run out before we head out to some remote islands over the next week where we won't have internet access.

So here are a few teasers




Blog Catch Up - Hauraki Gulf, Part 2

A late update of our NZ cruising.  As per usual, life got in the way of Blog updates.


After our NZ friends departed we sailed with Blue Summit to Great Barrier Island via Rotoroa Island, where we explored the many walking tracks, the bird life and the restored New Zealand fauna, a tribute the new lease holders.  

On Great Barrier Island we enjoyed a fabulous 10 days in perfect weather exploring anchorages, hiking coastal trails to lookouts and waterfalls, swimming, fishing and trying to catch those elusive lobsters.  



We drove the length of GBI visiting Medlands Community Church which had been relocated to the island by barge and taken ashore over the sandhills. 



Walked long sandy beaches then headed north via the Museum 





to Windy Canyon where we walked along the ridge towards Mr Hobson to enjoy spectacular views of the island and eastern shore line.  Those stairs at Windy Canyon probably contributed to Cran's knee injury, but that's another story.







A late lunch at the Port Fitzroy Boat Club was very welcome after the morning's activities and swimming in the Kaitoke Hotpools at the end of the day was an added bonus. 




We met up with Distant Sun, friends from Australia who sailed to NZ late December and have been cruising north from Nelson after visiting family in Wellington and enjoyed a few days cruising the western coast of GBI together.



Fresh Snapper was a welcome dinner treat along with mussels. 



Smokehouse Bay is an institution on GBI and a visit is a must for cruising sailors.  It has a range of communal facilities including as the name suggests a smokehouse for smoking your fish, washing tubs & clotheslines and a bath.  Plus swings for the kids of all ages.








Forestry Bay walk following Warrens’s track to the waterfall then the Bridle Track to Port Fitzroy shops for an ice cream.





At Port Fitzroy there are a number of walks that start from there.  We climbed the Old Lady Track to Lookout Rock above Fitzroy Harbour 




then we visited Glenfern Sanctuary, a predator free sanctuary where we climbed up through stands of ferns and Nikau Palms, Kauri and Puriri trees where Wetas live, then Manuka and Kanuka trees.  At Sunset Rock we enjoyed views across GBI to the mountains on the Coromandel Peninsula. 






A visit to the Mokohinau’s was an added bonus as we departed GBI.  Anchoring in Landing Bay we went ashore and climbed to the lighthouse for even more amazing views.  Crayfish pots were deployed however one disappeared overnight probably swept out in the tide and swell which developed overnight.  We did get a crayfish as a trade from a local boat that was out of olive oil, a good deal for us. 







With commitments looming we departed with Blue Summit for a 2 day run back up to the Bay of Islands and thanked the weather gods for a fantastic cruising weather window.


Many thanks to our NZ sailing buddies for all your wonderful advice and information which made our experiences all the more meaningful.