Vanuatu

The sail from Fiji was lively especially the first 36 hours then the seas and the winds settled and we enjoyed a more relaxing sail for the last night into Anatom.  As we sailed around the south east corner of the reef to enter the anchorage at  Anelghowhat a P&O Cruise ship was approaching - we thought it best to give them right of way!  

It was here that we checked into Vanuatu with the customs and biosecurity officers having flown in for the Cruise ship.  The village of Anelghowat was very hospitable providing beautiful fresh fruit for the rally boats.  We were invited to a village double wedding on our second day

 and on the third day we enjoyed a tour of the village with demonstrations of traditional fishing techniques, food preservation (for cyclone season), weaving, clothing and fire lighting.  We then all took our dinghies to Mystery Island for a feast  with some traditional dancing, kava drinking and a special presentation was made to the incoming ICA leader Nigel and the outgoing leader, John.  

Our next destination was the Island of Tanna where we walked the rim of Mt Yasur volcano.  On our approach we could see the steam and ash clouds rising from the Volcano from about 10 nautical miles out.  Cran landed a medium sized Skipjack Tuna  on the sail across, we had sashimi for lunch, made sushi for sundowners and smoked the remainder on the beach the following day.  The Port Resolution Yacht Club organized transport (twin cabs with open tray) which drove us to the bottom of Mt Yasur, which was an adventure in itself.  We rode in the back of the ute, ducking low branches, bracing for the pot holes and gasping as the climbed the mountain at the steam vents either side of the road.  We use the word road in its most basic sense, mostly deeply rutted tracks with no passing bays, so when we met an oncoming vehicle it was often a game of bluff as to who would have to back up or drive into the ditch. 

At the entry point we paid our entry fees and then were driven via a near vertical route to just below the rim of the volcano.  From the car park (an ash field) it was a 10 minute walk/climb up a stair case to the rim of the crater. OH and there was a post box on the stair climb!!

Once we were at the rim of the crater we could walk approximately one third of the way around the rim, a very unique sunset experience. 

From various points and heights we could see into the interior where 4 vents were active with red molten lava and steam, then a rumble was followed by explosions of molten rock and ash which was expelled high into the air.  At times there were big lumps of red rock flying through the air.  Most went back into the crater but some landed on the edge just below where we were standing when we first walked up the to rim.  Needless to say we were quickly covered in ash and some of us wore face masks , others rain jackets or ponchos, hats were handy to keep the ash out of your eyes.  

One word to describe the experience  "AWESOME”. 

We arrived just before sunset and once dark, the colors and fireworks were all the more spectacular.  When we departed at 6.30pm is was dark so torches were required to make the trek back around the crater rim, less than 1 meter wide at times, down soft ash slopes (our joggers will never look white again) and then down the steps to the car park.

When we arrived at our anchorage in Port Resolution the wind was blowing from the south east.  This meant the ash from the volcano was blowing away from us to the north west.  On the third day in Port Resolution the wind turned westerly so the boat was covered in ash and any hatches left just a little bit open - well there was ash in the boat as well.  The problem with ash on the boat when the wind changed was worth it for the experience. The ash is highly abrasive and has to be hosed off not brushed or wiped, or vacuumed on the inside.  We need to look at the winds for our next volcano visit.  During the day the clouds of mist and dust rising from the volcano are visible from Port Resolution, at night the red glow from the vents in the caldera are visible and you can hear the explosions and rumbles continuously day and night.  Around the anchorage are steaming vents and bubbling pools of hot water.  The Vanuatu people cook in the hot pools - 10 mins to cook a whole pumpkin.

We departed Tanna for an overnight sail to Port Vila. Another lively sail reaching 10 knots at times, no bad for us with two reefs in the main!  After securing a mooring buoy we hit the shops of Port Vila.  The open air market has a large range of fresh fruit and vegetables as well as snack foods e.g. locally grown peanuts as well as banana and sweet potato chips.  We restocked with fresh supplies and visited the large supermarket on the top of the hill behind the marina.  We dined in style for lunch at a great waterfront restaurant called Chill.  Linen table cloths and serviettes, air conditioning and a great lunch menu - the Vanuatu Beef is a must and we enjoyed this with the obligatory bottle of Tusker.  All this and a view of Port Vila harbour!  

After two days in Port Vila we started to head north, our destination being Ambrym for the Back to the Roots Festival.  It was a day hop firstly to Havanna Harbour where we continued birthday celebrations for Debbie on Zest.  She celebrated her birthday in style and her twin sons  and husband cooked up a storm.  We had a pot luck dinner where everyone brings something to share.  It all worked, the pasta stroganoff being the highlight!!  The following day we sailed to Epi Island to Lamen Bay for our overnight anchorage then to Ambrym Island for the festival.  Our sail north was lively at times but mostly good winds and the anchorages were beautiful, it was a shame to be staying just one night.  The currents between the islands were quite strong, we had 3 to 4 knots against us at one stage between Epi and Paama Islands.  Cran caught a 1.3 m Wahoo just off Ambrym Island as we sailed north.  

Saturday August 26 was one of those special days which will stay in our memories forever.  We were fortunate to experience the famous Rom Dance along with a couple of other dances related to grading ceremonies.  We thought we had missed it as the festival had started a day earlier than advertised and have since discovered that there are a few web sites with differing information.  Luckily Zest arrived a day before us and attended the second day where the Rom Dance was performed.  We went to the third day thinking that we would see some custom dancing, however, because there was such a large crowd of Europeans the Chief decided to repeat the Rom Dance plus a few others that we had missed.  We were very lucky and thank Chris and Debbie on Zest for talking to the chief on our behalf. 

We also saw one of the the Maghe or Grade-taking ceremonies and dance where the man who wants to move up a level in the community, as one part of the ceremony, has to stand on top of a high bamboo platform and have rocks and coconuts thrown at him - but only by men who are equal or a higher ranking to himself.  

The dancing was fantastic and the ground was vibrating with their stomping feet and amazing Tamtam drums.  We have some good photos and videos to share with you.

There was also a food demonstration that you would have enjoyed.  The men cooked breadfruit on an open fire and grated coconuts into a large bowl.  They then peeled the blackened breadfruit and kneaded the cooked flesh with a young smooth green coconut on a beautiful long low table that had been oiled with freshly grated coconut.  Once the breadfruit resembled smooth cooking dough it was shaped then flattened to look like a large thick crusted pizza.  This was then sliced with sharpened sticks.  While this was happening another man started to squeeze the coconut milk from the grated coconut and it was placed in a coconut shell with a rock that had been heated in the fire.  The fresh coconut milk turned to thick coconut cream as it sizzled over the hot rock.  This thick milk was then poured over the breadfruit and we were invited to eat strait from the table.  It was delicious and not a skerrick was left.

There were some interesting carvings for sale including traditional bow and arrow sets, bamboo flutes decorated with geometrical designs, stone carvings and small Tamtam drums.  We purchased a flute, will just have to learn how to play it now!!  

Our anchorage on Ambrym at Nopul was excellent and there is a coral/sandy beach to land the dinghies. At night we can see the red glow in the sky of the volcanos of Mt Benbro and Mt Marum.  I snorkeled on the reef off the beach with Kate from Blue Summit, while Cran and Steve smoked some Wahoo and Mahi-Mahi to the great interest of the local women and children.  We gave them a taste and they were not quite sure as it was moist and had a manuka honey and ginger dressing, a new taste for them.  When they cook fish it is tough and overcooked, probably because they have no refrigeration.   That evening we went to a small restaurant about at 30 min walk away for early dinner. Fruit bat on the menu (wings and head included) - we gave that one a miss, however the the pizza, various sweet potato and taro dishes, cucumber salad, rice and chicken, orange and pampelmos platter were more attractive.

Monday August 28 we headed north to Espiritu Santu and anchored off Ratoua Island Resort, where we enjoyed a beautiful lunch with our friends Caroline and Gus.      We caught up with them in New Zealand after a few years of loosing touch.  They had purchased a new Jeaneau in France, sailed her through the Med, across the Atlantic through the Panama Canal and across the Pacific to NZ then north to Vanuatu.  They will now make Vanuatu their home and will spend the next 12 months building a home here on Aore Island just south of Luganville.  Their boat has just sold so it will be a motor boat for the next few years until the oceans beckon one again. This will be the outlook front their front verandah, a view you'd never tire of , as a water view it is dynamic and always changing.

We leave for New Caledonia tomorrow morning and will do a further update to Vanuatu with some photos in and around Port Vila.

Like all countries we have visited this year, Vanuatu has been a great experience, the people are very welcoming and appreciate you coming.  WE WILL BE BACK.